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ThatDude407

Member Since 19 Feb 2009
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 01:55 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: TD's Weapon Update 2

Yesterday, 01:55 PM

View Postamiaturtle, on 21 May 2012 - 05:57 PM, said:

So it's basically the same thing I put on the bed of my truck like 10 years ago. You sound like a sellsman for Duratech Ed, lol.

i dont think its anything like rhino liner or similar products. it has no texture to it whatso ever. i think you can buy texture packs if you wanted to go for that look.

In Topic: TD's Weapon Update 2

21 May 2012 - 08:27 AM

View PostEliXColdiron, on 20 May 2012 - 11:09 AM, said:

Does the duracoat just help prevent wear and tear?

it does alot actually.

it helps with general wear and tear. it makes the parts you paint rust proof.

a few other things i found about dura coat durring my research of the product

DuraCoat's combination of elasticity and hardness creates a finish impervious to impact, scratching and the elements. Some users say DuraCoat displays some lubricating qualities, but this phenomenon was never intended when DuraCoat was created.

DuraCoat is well suited for salty environments. One of DuraCoat's attributes is its extreme ability to resist salt corrosion. A firearm coated with DuraCoat simply will not rust...EVER!

DuraCoat can withstand temperatures as high has 500-600 degrees F. With "normal" shooting, your barrel will never get close to being that hot. If you are fortunate enough to own a transferable machine gun, or if you like to "blaze" with your semi-auto, do not put DuraCoat on your barrel, as your barrel temperature will rise to over 1,000 degrees F. In those cases, use DuraHeat. Our DuraHeat coating can handle temperatures up to 1,800 degrees F.

How easy is DuraCoat removed?
Not easy at all. The elastic nature of DuraCoat resists blasting. A qualified individual, with the proper blast media, can safely remove DuraCoat without damaging the surface of the firearm. Be careful. In most cases, we recommend lightly blasting the surface, being cautious not to remove any DuraCoat. Just "beat up" the DuraCoat giving it "tooth" so your new application of DuraCoat has something to adhere to.

How come other firearm finish manufacturers boast hardness, but make no mention of elasticity?
In the case of firearm finishes, a common misconception is "harder is better". This is faulty "old school thinking". Hardness means brittle and brittle means chipping. DuraCoat, being elastic, will not chip. If your DuraCoat chips, it means you have a preparation problem. Most likely, the surface was not clean. Elasticity provides protection by "giving" when confronted with impact. Elasticity also helps prevent scratches and mars.

In Topic: I Finally Bought a Pistol

18 May 2012 - 07:16 AM

View PostPsyman, on 18 May 2012 - 06:40 AM, said:

oh yay another gun toting american :wink:

he's worse than that he is now a gun toting american lawyer... he will shoot you and then sue you for needing to shoot you

In Topic: I found this awesome

13 May 2012 - 03:09 PM

End of Active Service for the civies.

great song tho can totally relate

In Topic: I Finally Bought a Pistol

05 May 2012 - 06:08 PM

View PostJBlaze, on 05 May 2012 - 12:22 AM, said:

Very nice Pete. You should check out the Sig Sauer P226 and P220. Excellent weapons, albeit a bit pricey. Just remember to point it in the right direction ;)

very pricey i am in the market for a small compact 380. i looked at the S&W bg380 because of its price point but the trigger is like 9 lbs, its like a rifle trigger almost. then i looked at the sig 238 and it was very nice, but the price of over 600 bucks scares the fuck outta me

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